JUST---BALLS

   

 

 

This is just a basic breeding formula for Large Adult Female and Male Ball Pythons. Females that are at least three years of age generally make better breeders. Once you go through the breeding process you can change, add or delete what works for you and what does not.  First off, you want to make sure your Adult female Ball Pythons have good weight. Make sure they are in excellent health (no respiratory problems) the cooling and breeding process can be taxing for a healthy snake much less an ill snake.  

 

•             October 1^St, shut off all heating and lights in the snake room at night. Allow the temperature to drop to room temperature it will be between 74-76F which should last 12 to 14 Hrs.  During daytime heat and lights should be turn back on to normal, temperature approximately 82-84F. You can put all of your heating elements on timers for convenience. I offer food but smaller amounts and about every 14 days . Note: the beginning of your breeding season can begin either earlier or later.   

•             November 1^st remove male from his cage and introduce him to the female's cage once a week for two days giving him one to two days rest between copulations. He is then removed and put back in his cage. Continue process until February  (Four months breeding period). This method has worked well for me. I use the three females to one male ratio some breeders use the five to one ratio. 

•            February  temperature back to normal (90-92F) .  Offer smaller food items than usual. Usually every 7 to 10 days. Females that are gravid will often refuse food at this time.  Gravid female will keep eggs in her body for 50 to 120 days, usually about to 60 to 70 days.  After about 25 days of gravidity, the rear end of the female abdomen takes on a plump appearance (ovulation) which visually can last 24 hours. About 30 days after ovulation the female will enter a shed cycle which could last 12-14 days. The date of actual shed is very important, egg-laying usually occurs 25-30 days later.  When ovulation occurs the male’s job is done and the female will start to lay cold. She will spend more time in the cooler end of the cage and will even wrap around their water bowl. The female will usually stop feeding after the third week of gravidity, and will not feed again until the eggs are out.  A gravid snake should be handled as little as possible. 

•              April-June egg-laying will usually occur. 

•              52-60 days later eggs will begin to hatch. Eggs in the same clutch do not necessarily hatch at the same time, sometimes they hatch days apart. Be patient, many people cut the eggs too premature and this can cause heath problems with the hatchlings.           

•             Artificial incubation, 88-90F.  The eggs should be placed in moist vermiculite.  It is important to maintain a high humidity (by mist spraying) during incubation, whether natural or in an incubator.  DO NOT SPRAY EGGS THEMSELVES incubation takes from 55 to 60 days.  Approximately two weeks prior to hatching, temperature should be drop from 90 to 88F. 

•             Never remove the young from the eggs.  Allow them to emerge completely by themselves.  During this period the young will absorb the yolk and the respiratory system is adjusting to breathing the air. 

This is just a quick reference to the breeding cycle:

• Cool down october 1st.
• Start breeding November 1st.
• Warm-up February
• Breed till ovulation or March
• Ovulation February-May.
• Pre-lay shed 16 days later.
•  Eggs laid 26-30 days later.
• Eggs hatch in about 52-60 days.

 

I really hope this helps you and wish you tremendous Success!

 

Best Wishes,

 

JUST---BALLS

Click here to go to my Egg Incubation page